The SolarCycle Diaries: 3 riders. 12,000 miles. 1 cause.

Horizontal palm trees, torrential rain, two metre visability and whipping sand… ah the Gulf Coast.

Though the temperatures are finally too high for freezing, once again the elements are pitted against us.

Of course.

(Bad weather follows me. I went to Ayres Rock in July, 2007 and there was snow for the first time in recorded history. Rubbish.)

We are meant to be on the road today but the severe weather warning has put us off. It was the Tornado Watch that did it. 

Luckily, tommorrow’s forcast shows sun and tailwinds so – though it means we have a couple of 200km days in a row - it seems worth it. Previous experience has shown that going 5 miles an hour, soaked to the bone, receiving an all over exfoliation, loses its excitement quite rapidly.

Anyway, it gives me chance to catch up on here and so… back to last week and Louisiana.

We hit the road from Lafayette early and headed straight onto the interstate. Though we have been cycling on these intermittently it began to dawn on us that it might not be such a great idea. Sadly there was nowhere else to go.

Ah well.

Busy roads and miles of thin bridges doesn’t make for the most relaxing pedaling but it was above the swamps so – if you cycled with music on, looking away from the traffic- it was pretty awesome…

Just don't look the other way!

Eventually though, we hit a bridge too far (no shoulder, no way of crossing the lane of lorries and no hope of survival). Standing daunted at the side of the road it was only seconds before the roadside assistance arrived. And – after only a slight admonishment for our presence on the motorway – we were packed into the back of a van for the last three miles to Gulf South Solar.

Brilliant.

As founder of the Louisiana Solar Energy Society, Jeff had kindly answered my email and had welcomed us with open arms, energy bars, steaming mugs of coffee and extra solar panels.

Truely the stereotype of southern hospitality could not be more accurate.

After trying out his electric bike, meeting the team and chatting with Mark, who heads up the local cycling group, we headed straight to… pint night!

Pint night

The next day, after more cake and kindness, we were waved off on our final push to New Orleans.

Here we were meeting Niall and Marian, our lovely friends from G24,  we stayed in LA.We had also been put in touch with Maite and Lee, the brother and sister-in-law of Ann we had met the previous day. They had offered us a place to stay.

It was a wonderful long weekend.

We drank a few too many cocktails (absinthe? Marian…), checked out the French quarter, jogged the levee, saw some aligators, went for beniers at Cafe du Monde, were taken for an amazing long ladies lunch (with 25c martini’s – and Jamie), checked out the carnival masks, costumes and music, saw the Saints win, given a fleur de lis and taken to visit the Make it Right Foundatation.

French Quarter - New Orleans

The Make it Right Foundation was set up to rebuild the Lower 9th area of the City after hurricane Katrina. Established by Brad Pitt (who sadly was not around at the time), it is also being built sustainably. Gulf South Solar have provided solar panels for many of the homes.

It is a fantastic project but covers only a corner of the work needed to restore a city after such an incredible catastrophe. 

Four years later the area still provides a stark reminder of the destructive power of the elements.

Finally dragging ourselves away from Lee and Maite’s (thanks guys – it was so brilliant) we hit the road once again. This time heading to Biloxi.

And – after only a small blip (I was  in charge of directions) all was going well.

Ish.

Well, that is, apart from the fact that I had started to feel a bit queasy.

We stopped at Fort Pike for lunch.

I couldn’t eat.

My stomach was in my throat.

Back on the road to Biloxi progress was not much better.

We stopped for me to lie down and to check what was up ahead.

Nothing for 30 miles.

Hmmm.

3 miles of excruciatingly slow pedaling later we stopped again.

I had no energy.

I tooka sip of lemonade.

BLEURGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spot the vomit...

Disgusting.

We were still 27 miles from Bay St Louis but feeling marginally better with nothing in my stomach, we plodded on. As soon as we got there I headed straight to bed and Jamie went out for supplies.

The following morning (and a packet of jelly babies later) I dragged myself up.

Overnight, another storm had hit.

The rain was torrential.

We hung out for it to stop and then scooted off into the mist. Jeff had put us in touch with his brother, Kevin, who lives in Mobile and who had offered us a place to stay. We were also going to visit his son’s school to speak about the trip. 

Things did not go quite to plan…

Twenty minutes later the rains began again. Even stronger than before.

Despite wearing waterproofs, we were soaked to the bone. The wind was driving against us, we couldn’t see the road ahead and the cars could not see us. Pedaling on the beach front we got stuck in sand drift after sand drift and Jamie got a puncture.

Stormy weather

Four hours later, we had only gone 25 miles. 

At that rate we would never get to Mobile until late and there was nowhere to stop beforehand. The idea of camping in the tropical thunderstorm was not all that appealing. Exhausted from the day before, I called it a day.

I slept some more and awoke the next morning refreshed and ready to get back on the bike.

Unfortunately, it was Jamie’s turn to feel bad.

He had been up all night with toothache.

Getting back on the bikes regardless, we stopped at the first dentist we saw. Fortunately they had space immediately. A couple of hours later he was fixed and feeling much better.

The sun began to clear and the afternoons pedal was gently rolling and relaxed. Despite the dental emergency we were making good time.

Time even for me to get a puncture without worrying too much.

Which was lucky as it took an age to locate the hundreds of metal shards that had attacked my wheel.

Jamie sunbathed while I worked away, shocking the passersby who could not believe his lack of chivalry. (We always fix our own punctures. And actually Jamie often ends up helping when I mess mine up.)

Totally oblivious to the trouble he is causing!

Many people stopped to check he was ok as it didn’t cross their minds that I could be doing the hardwork while he lay listening to music in the sunshine.

I deflected much of the consternation as he remained oblivious to the glares. Eventually, though, one guy got out of his truck to offer help. I declined with thanks and explained that I was fine.

“Well Mam, I have just one more question.”

“Of course.”

“Why isn’t HE doing this.”

Jamie was lounging, eyes closed, singing along to the  Beastie Boys.

I toyed with several responses but settled for something that would emasculate him even further in this gentlemanly region. Leaning in and adopting a conspiratorial whisper I explained.

“Well, he’s just not very practical. I just don’t want him to do it wrong…”

On the last leg in, Kevin called. He had been in touch with the local news station who would meet us on the road to do a story.

Half an hour later and we spied a camera on the verge. It was the man from Fox 10. We videoed a short interview and chatted to Stephen, a guy passing who was interested in our journey.

As we pushed off he called out to Jamie.

“Hey man, I don’t know how safe it is cycling round here. Do you want to borrow a gun?”

Such a kind offer but such a strange one for a us to recieve, Jamie responded as only an Englishman would.

“Erm. No. But thank you very much. You know, I would love to but – um – we don’t have much space in our bags…”

A few minutes later we pulled into Mobile and followed the GPS to Kevin’s house.

What a stunning home.

Wonderful home, wonderful company

We were welcomed in and had a fantastic evening with his family eating fresh Mexican food and laughing. Right up until the time for our news debut…

We decamped to the living room.

9.15, not up yet but there was a good feature on dress code in a local elementary.

9.29, still no sign but there had been a big car crash.

9.38, the local council had an important ruling on pavement levels, obviously that would supercede.

9.52, well, there was bad weather and people need to know about the weather.

9.58, “and after the break last piece on some very adventurous people”.

(Finally our moment of fame and fortune was imminent…)

9.59.5, “Local men in Bejing brave the icy temperatures to take a dip in the river.”

What?

What?

They weren’t even in Mobile!?!?!

They were in Bejing.

Going for a swim.

We were cheated.

Totally cheated

Anyway, the next morning we had been invited into school with Stephen and Walker, Kevin’s two sons, to speak about the trip in their morning assembly broadcast (they have a video link to announcements and the kids do them as a show – man- they never had anything so cool in my day).

Back at School

We didn’t have much idea what we were doing but it was fun nevertheless and great to talk afterwards to two of the Forms.

Once again though, we had to drag ourselves away and move along. It was another beautiful sunny day and as the afternoon drew in we hit Florida and the coast.

Bring on the Sunshine State!

For the last leg of our solar journey, it could not be more appropriate.

Sadly, after catching a glorious sunset that evening, the sun has been a bit ellusive.

What there has been though is plenty of wind, fog and rain.

In case of any doubt, I can can confirm that the best place to be in the face of a storm, is not a narrow sand bank with nothing between you and the ocean.

Stunning though it was, it was not the swiftest riding either. The raging headwind was compounded by the sand that had been blown onto the road.

Really?

Many long miles later though we made it to Panama City Beach just before the heavens opened.

Which is where we still are.

(Well, Sunday is a day of rest.)

Fingers crossed the weather forcast is right. After slacking today we have some pretty big miles to do before we get to Gainesville on Wednesday.

It is very exciting though as our stop there is at the University of Florida who have kindly asked us to talk at their first SolarCycle week.

They are holding all sorts of events around solar power and cycling. Can’t wait.

Just 250 miles to cover first….

As ever, will let you all of the adventures we have along the way.

Susie xx

Thanks to Susie’s never ending enthusiasm for writing blogs and my laziness, my blog is certainly well overdue (sorry everyone, especially Susie). To be fair it’s been overdue for a couple of weeks now… cue the slap on the wrist.

Normally, I’d have a reasonable excuse. Something along the lines of cycling for a hundred miles and then going out to find dinner, preparing it and needing to get some sleep before the next days cycle. Recently however the only real excuse would involve either being out and having too much fun or recovering from being out and having too much fun, neither are reasonable excuses.

As such, I’ve spend all day pondering, trying to find a really interesting aspect of our trip to amuse and amaze. Perhaps a photo blog of all the wonderful sights we’ve passed, or how dramatically different one day can be from the next, maybe the astonishing hospitality of strangers, an historical overview of where we are now, a night out in Houston or New Orleans, or even an account of the things Susie’s too scared to put in a blog. In the end I decided to copy the idea from one of my previous blogs and put in another day from my diary.

Before you jump to the conclusion that I wimped out or went for the easy option I should point out that I’ve already said how lazy I am so, you should expect me to go for the easy option. As it happens, it’s all true and I went for the easy option so I could get some sleep!

Actually, the “Day From My Diary II” is today’s diary. Thinking about what has happened to us since this morning encompasses a number of the above mentioned potential topics and some more. As before, I’ve added explanation where it’s needed in [square brackets].

Diary 19th January, 2010

Woke up after a great nights sleep, if not a little too short on hours. [Bed time was 12.50] As usual woke up an irritating 30 seconds before my alarm sounded at 6.40. I was hoping I had an extra 30 minutes or so. 2 snoozes later and I was glad I could hear Susie in the shower next door as it was an excuse to stay in bed an extra ten minutes. As it turn’s out Susie wasn’t in the shower, it was the heating fan. She knocked on my door so I got up, showered, then repacked my bags while drinking coffee and eating toast. I was nearly totally packed when I realised Susie was still on the computer, yet again without the power lead in. So spent the next half hour or so chatting with Lee and Maite [pronounced 'mitre'] and having more of their great coffee. Maite left to walk the dog. I asked Lee if I could borrow ’Catcher in the Rye’ as I was only a little way through and hoping I’d get time to finish before returning. [Maite and Lee had shown us such a great time in and around New Orleans we jumped at the chance to come back for Mardi Gras at the end of our trip!].

[I'll quickly explain how we came to stay with Maite and Lee. Susie had writen to various solar people in the southern states and Jeff Shaw got in contact and we met him at Gulf South Solar in Baton Rouge (two days cycle from New Orleans). Jeff and the staff welcomed us with open arms. The next morning when we went back to the offices, Ann (from Gulf South Solar) informed us that her brother Lee and his wife Maite lived just outside New Orleans, she'd given them a call and we could stay with them. Brilliant!] 

Susie eventually got ready and we set out on the road about 9am. The sun was shining and as soon as I got to the levy [The Mississippi river levy protects the low level housing in and around New Orleans] I took off my trousers. First time in a few weeks i had been able to cycle in just my shorts. Chatted with Susie about paying too much tax for a while as we wound round the river. Chatted to another cyclist on our way. She shot off on her racer after a bit. Got to the Zoo and stopped to check directions.

I thought Susie knew where we were heading as she’d been talking with Lee the previous evening. She thought I’d looked at the map and worked out the route. How she thought I knew what they were talking about the previous evening I don’t know but that didn’t make much difference especially as the woman cyclist we’d chatted to on the levy appeared out of nowhere offering us assistance.

The very nice lady, Courtney, not only phoned her husband to get the best route but actually took her bike off the car and showed us the way. She told me about some of the buildings and history en-route and that she’s training for a half ironman in three months. Her husband has a marathon in a couple of weeks. By the time we got to our road she’d offered us the use of their condo in Orange, near Florida. Unbelievable!  The southern hospitality stereotype is certainly all true, and more. 

The next 15km out of town wasn’t so nice, the trafic was ‘big’ [massive vehicles] and some roadworks. Then the bridge was closed so we had to go over to the freeway bridge [the freeways in Louisianna are illegal for bikes, but there was no other route]. There was lots of debris collected at the edge and little or no shoulder. I realised that Susie had dopped back so slowed down. I was getting a bit wobbly at that speed and an 18 wheeler passes a little too close so I kept on. I took the first exit ramp and when I turned round to see Susie she wasn’t in sight. I pulled up and stopped. She came into sight before I got too worried about there being no shoulder and big lorries. We rejoined the 90 [highway] and the road was much better. [Hard] Shoulder for pretty much the rest of the day. Terrain was predictably flat all day too.

We stopped at supermarket and got some painkillers, lemonade and bread. Stupid layout of store. Sat in the scorching sun and made sandwhiches. Susie wasn’t feeling too well and didn’t eat much. Her funny tummy together with the fact she claims her boobs are bigger [too much food and drink since Christmas, and not too much cycling] prompted me to make some morning sickness jokes. Took a couple of painkillers for my knee. Took off my thermal which I havn’t done since China.

Back on the road and then realised I’d lost my sunglasses by leaving them on top of my panier when I cycled off. Finally out of town and the ride got much nicer. There was swamp either side and lots of buildings on stilts and raised. Boats all over the place. Lots of old and broken boats, probably from Katrina, I thought Dad would like it here. [My Dad seems to collect boats, even though he can't sail, the boats are generally beyond repair and he can't swim]. Nice houses, all seemed new. I was expecting to see a load of hurricane and water damaged houses but there weren’t any really, only some wonky stilts and foundations in place. Great looking dead tree trunks and grasses, plus really wide trunks at the base of the tree’s that grow directly into the water.

Stopped at Fort Pike. We talked to guy in office and got a leaflet, wrote in the guest book, payed our $4 and went in. Clouds came over and it become cold. The fort was quite quaint but seemed a little short for the purposes of a fort. Lots of gun emplacements though, a few cannons dotted about. Very wet. Susie had left her shoes back at the bike and went off to get them and her jacket. I wandered round investigating the rooms and different bits. Cool weapons cases and ammo and one room renovated to show how it would have been.

Fort Pike

Back to the office and Susie was chatting to the guy in the office. He’d been on the internet after reading our website I’d marked in the visitors book and looked us up. He said he wouldn’t have charged us the $4 if he’d known we were on this big trip. I said he could give us a refund if he liked and he thought I was being serious. He told us that the centre courtyard was built on wooden rafters that make it move up and down with the water level but that it was attached to the walls so it ended up pushing them out. Plus, during Katrina, the fort was under 38feet of water and they’d only recently got it reopened. Plus the old sewage system that used the tide to wash away everything means that the whole thing floods every time they have a high tide and so is constantly wet inside. He took a photo of us outside the fort for the office and said they may use it with the local press. Nice chap, rides an Indian [motorbike, not the native]. Also said that all the houses between New Orleans and the Fort had been built since Katrina, only one house was left standing on the 60mile stretch of road. It amazed me as there were a good few thousand houses there and loads of spaces where there used to be more places. This area really got annihalated.  Susie was feeling worse and didn’t have anything to eat at all. One guy chatted to us after seeing us on the road, walking back to his mate shouted “these guys have cycled across europe and asia on those bast#%ds”. Brought a smile to our faces.

Swampy

Back on the road and over a bridge. Cool sky, very blue with fluffy clouds. Susie was markedly slow, I took the lead after 10km as usual and she didn’t keep up. Soon apparent she wasn’t well at all. We stopped and she lay down for a bit.

A Little Nap!

A nice chap turned round to see if we were alright. I looked up how far it was to the nearest motel, 30km. Town in 8km though. We were thinking of flagging one of the trucks [one of the seemingly infinite humungous pick-ups that constantly pass by] down and getting a lift. She decided to try to get to town and see how it went. Stopped again and she spewed up. Missed the photo opp. Felt better afterwards and we got to a garage. She bought some coke for the sugar and rehydration. Very cold now, thermal and jacket. Nothing at all in Pearlington but Susie felt she may be able to make it the next 25km so we headed off. 

The causeway near the Fort now turned back to marshland with tall pine forests. We made ot into town as it was getting dark. Just before 6pm. Checked out a couple of motels and after some negotiation with the manager managed to get the tax off. I checked out a room but said we had to change as it smelt of smoke and thought it was the last thing Susie needed. Got a different room, but changed that one as it also smelt of smoke. Showered, changed and went straight back out to find food as I was starving.  Went to Family Dollar to get susie some pretzels and gummy bears. Ended up getting ingredients to make burrito’s.

Got back and set up the computer to do blog. Susie was already in bed and dozing. Not surprised after managing to cycle 80 miles feeling like sh#t. Still managed to wake up a bit and eat gummy bears though! Made dinner and checked e-mails. Dinner took ages as the rice I’d bought took 25 minutes to cook even using the microwave, rubbish. Got some photo’s from Ann and was nice to hear from Charles [our co-cyclist  throughout China] who will be able to make it to our return party.  

Seems as though I’m now up to date. I have only to sign off, brush my teeth and do a couple of emails before I can get to bed too. It’s gone 12.30am so I’ll probably hit the sack around 1am.

I hope Susie can get some sleep and feels better in the morning. We’ve got about 85 miles to cover before meeting up with Jeff’s brother and then hopefully doing a presentation for his son’s class at school the next morning. Should be fun.

Night Y’all!

“You don’t get to choose how you’re going to die. Or when. You can only decide how you’re going to live. Now.” - Joan Baez

Back on the road.

Back on the open road

So relaxing.

After a manic few days at Christmas it is amazingly peaceful to be pedaling again. Daydreaming, watching the world go by and hanging out in the… sunshine….

Finally.

First things first though, Houston.

Not actually somewhere we had planned to go.

Naturally.

But at 7pm last Wednesday, in the dark, as the rain began to fall and the temperatures plummet we rocked up somewhere in the Northern suburbs.

 Attempting to read the GPS in the blurry half light a very sweet homeless lady wandered over.

“You guys lost.”

“Erm, are we, yes.”

“Well, don’t go any further. There’s only a couple of motels ahead and I wouldn’t stay there. This one here isn’t too bad. I mean, they do rent by the hour but at least the crack dealers wont bother you.”

Fair enough…

We stopped. It was everything you could imagine of a seedy motel but it was warm, dry and had Aladdin on TV. 

It was my birthday so Jamie braved the weather to get a cake and some food (thanks Jamie – you rock).

Lucky really as I was too scared to leave the room!

Anyway, we awoke the next day to the ‘arctic blast’ that had hit the South. Since we had a load of time to get to New Orleans we decided to hole up and stay put. The decision was made much easier as we  had also found that the lovely Mike Mercer (friend from Lloyd’s) had just moved to the US to terrorise beautiful ladies.

He would rescue us after work.

Whoop.

And so it came to pass that - just a short while after our less than salubrious introduction to the city - we found ourselves in a loft apartment with a hot tub on the roof overlooking the sky line.

A step up from the day before...

Very Miami Vice.

If Miami was in Texas.

And didn’t have as much vice in it. 

Anyway, a huge thank you again to Blake for putting us in touch with Mike and to Todd for lending us his apartment. Such unbelievable and unexpected luxuory.

In fact, so much so that we didn’t leave the following day either – opting instead to head out to the Museum District to immerse ourselves into a bit of culture.

A soothing antidote to the mayhem of New Year.

Much as the last couple of days.

Quite a bit of the journey from Houston to Lafayette was built up and traffic heavy but just being on the open road has a curiously soothing effect on the soul.

There were a whole load of great quotes in the museum library so the meditative state was exacerbated by some serious pondering.

When not spotting alligators.

Or being amazed by the continued Southern hospitality.

Once again, everyone we meet has been wonderfully friendly.

None more so than Jeff at the Louisiana Solar Energy Society who has not only been in touch with the press in Baton Rouge on our behalf but who has offered us food, water and a roof over our heads. Plus, help with the bikes and all our solar kit. Oh and he has an electric bike that runs off solar panels. Something we tried (and sadly – failed) to make back home. Be great to see it in action.

Anyhow, Jeff was also involved in drafting the legislation for the Louisiana Tax credits, which give the state the best solar incentives in America.

Looking forward to finding out more.

The SolarCycle Diaries is supporting the ‘We Support Solar’ campaign in the UK (sign up if you live there). The UK government is currently debating the level of a feed-in-tariff for people adding solar power into the national grid. A good tariff will hugely increase the amount of renewable energy in the country and provide thousands of green collar jobs. As it has in Germany. It will be interesting to see how the tax incentives here have taken affect.

Anyway, that is all later on today.

Right now though I had better get a wriggle on or we will never make it!

Hope you are having a great one wherever you may be.

Susie xx

Happy Birthday to me

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday to me….

Guess what?

I know. I know. You’re all thinking:

“How can she be another year older when she looks so incredibly youthful?”

“What? That time of year again, but we are still recovering from how amazing her last birthday was.” etc

But yes.

Indeed it is.

And for those now fretting about how to get the plethora of gifts to me here.

Fear not.

I have a plan…

Without any postage, packaging or debate over which expensive piece of jewellery to purchase you can instead make a super simple donation to SolarAid, the fantastic charity we are raising money for.

Just click on this handily placed link, grab your credit card and be as wildly over generous as possible.

Go on…

Did I mention it’s my birthday?

Anyway, in other marginally less narcissistic news, we have finally hit the road again.

It was pretty difficult to leave Austin after such a great few days. (Technically yesterday it was impossible to leave.)

So thank you so much to all of the fantastic people we got to bring the New Year in with – lots of margaritas, hats and an awe inspiring/terrifying Dirty Dancing lift post open bar… (Ashton you are a beautiful lunatic!)

New Year - courtesy of trevoray.com

To Chris, Jason, Ed and Eli at the Bicycle Sports Shop for fixing up our bikes, as well as Carrie for introducing us. (They are so shiny. Plus the gears change and everything.)

So clean!

And the biggest thanks of all to Vanessa for putting up with us for so long. So wonderful to see you lovely lady. Missing you already.

Anyway, leave we finally did and our aching legs propelled us the 90 miles to Brenham today without too much complaint. The plan is to head to New Orleans in six days but as yet another freak snow storm is rapidly approaching (seriously – that was so 2009…) that could change.

As ever, will let you know how it goes though.

For now, I hope that wherever you were, your New Year rocked and wherever you are, 2010 is treating you well.

Susie xx

P.s. Jamie got a fortune cookie today. He opened it with trepidation and excitement. What words of wisdom would it impart. What mystery would it reveal…

“You are what you think about all day long.”

So - there you have it  ladies and gentlemen.

Irrefutable proof that he’s  a big t*t!