Well, that was unexpected…
The beauty of undertaking a trip to highlight the power of the sun and the deserts is that it is usually warm.
If not utterly sweltering.
It is possible however, that while we were planning our trip, we may have overlooked a couple of small things.
Namely, mountains and the winter!
Man alive - there was a moment back there when Charles’ beard had frozen and Jamie nearly crashed as he couldn’t feel his hands to work the brakes. (Though I maintain that they can’t have been that bad since he refused the - exceptionally generous - offer to stick them in my armpits…)
It all began on the first day out of Jiyanguan.
We decided to attempt an epic mission to get to Zhangye, 246km away, in a day.
The billowing winds had recently been in our favour and - if we made it - we would have time to visit a beautiful temple housing the largest reclining Buddha in Asia.
We got up early, ate our hotel out of its buffet breakfast (we locate buffets at all opportunities, it still astounds me that the guys can physically move after they have polished off their eighth or ninth plate but their skills in this regard are unrivaled) and hit the road as dawn broke.
All went marvelously well until the first incident with the local constabulary.
We were allowed on most of the expressways in the desert. As they are wide, smooth and - curiously - devoid of traffic they are great for cycling in areas where there is little to see. They are quicker and far safer than their smaller alternatives.
In reality though, we knew that we weren’t really meant to be there.
When, that morning, I accidentally cut up a police car on the slipway, it didn’t bode well…
Luckily the old ’smile, wave and keep cycling’, technique was used to brilliant effect. I scooted past just in time and the guys gesticulated that they could do nothing but follow me.
However, after several hours battling the wind (which had naturally turned) we were spotted again and told to head back 10k and get onto a smaller road.
It was looking bleak. We pulled into the service station to get some supplies and contemplate the awful thought of returning the way we had just come.
We soon started chatting to some truckers interested in the panels on the bikes. There was much pointing and gesticulating. As this is the general basis of most of our conversations it took us a while to realise that in this case this meant: ‘the police have gone, keep going’.
I love truckers!
It had already begun to get late though and so we had to make a call. Stop and camp or continue in the dark. Jamie was not sure about safety but Charles, wanting to see the sights and I, wanting a hot shower, persuaded him.
Naturally, two hours later, we were cycling the wrong way back along the pitch black motorway into oncoming juggernauts! (Don’t worry Mum, still wearing my cycling helmet…)
We had missed the exit. (Well, I hadn’t, I had seen it. But was told I was wrong. And then ignored. Again. Not that I am bitter or anything.)
Damnations.
Eventually though, after 256k, frozen solid, ravenous and exhausted we made it to town.
The next morning we headed straight for the poshest hotel in town and once again booked ourselves in for breakfast. (With the guys appetites wheted by the previous days exertions, the level of consumption achieved was almost awe inspiring.) We then found the sanctuary of the buddhist temple for a couple of hours of blissful calm before once again hitting the road.
The late start coupled with tired legs led to a short 65k but it was all uphill and the cold was bearing down on us once again as we hit the town of Milne.
Luckily Milne is a town with several exceptionally cheap places to stay. We headed to bed that night filled with trepidation about the mountains ahead. We were woefully underprepared for an escapade to the edges of the Tibetan Plateau…
The next day brought another dawn start. We had a huge climb ahead and hoped to avoid two nights camping in the snowline.
It was slow going.
Very slow.
Once again, all of us were finding it hard to maintain the feeling in fingers and toes. (”Oh no. My toes aren’t even excruciatingly painful any more. Do you think they have fallen off? I want the sharp stabbing sensation back!” Etc.)
Then the climbing began in earnest.
We made the first 3685m peak at midday. The sun was shining, we were bouyed with a sense of great achievement and Jamie built a snowman.
Speeding down the other side, the icy sting of the wind was a quick sharp shock that took your breath away but there were yaks, stunning mountains and monks on motorbikes to distract from the pain.
By the top of the next 3765m peak the mood had changed. The clouds had come in blocking out the late afternoon sun and our legs were giving out underneath us. Wrapping our running noses into scarves we plummeted down the otherside. It was difficult to decide whether to go slow and minimise the agony or fast to get it over with. When we eventually hit uphill again our legs cried out but it was a relief to pedal and get some warmth back into our bodies.
Just before dusk we found the town for which we were aiming.
All two houses of it.
And - rather fortuitously - a strange abandoned mosque like building with sheds outside.
One of which was unlocked.
We rolled our sleeping mats and settled in for a restless night as the temperature dropped.
The next morning was our coldest yet.
This was the ‘frozen beard / total loss of feeling in extremities’ mentioned earlier. We were saved at the nearest town by a wonderful man who let us sit by his hearth then gave us tea.
He was certain our plan to cycle to Xining over another pass was folly.
Naturally we set off regardless.
In actual fact, this pass was much as the first the day before. A huge steep climb but during the heat of the day, saving us from the arctic conditions. The descent too was nowhere near as terrible as that the previous afternoon. (Jamie still insisted his hands were frozen. I am suspicious, though, that this is because I said he could warm them up on my tummy if they were really bad and he just wanted to put his hands up my T-shirt…)
Anyway, after a long (wind strongly against) descent we eventually made it to Xining, pausing along the way to have a rest under a stunning monastry.
What a culture shock!
We awoke that morning on a desolate mountainside and had arrived in the hustle and bustle of a huge, modern and very neon city.
So strange.
People talk about ‘two China’s’ but this was our first introduction to the populated half.
Modern China has though, been treating us just as kindly.
The kind and smiling faces remain and our first meal was generously discounted as ‘we like foreigners’.
We took a quick side trip to Ta-er Si, one of the most important monastries outside Tibet, birthplace of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Yellow Hat Sect, and former home of the current Dalai Lama (hanging out specifically at the Auspicious Palace).
Otherwise though, we have simply taken the opportunity to launch ourselves back into consumer society with some purchasing.
- Shoes (flip flops just don’t cut it in the snow)
- Gloves (for Jamie, so no more excuses)
- And Snickers… it is hard to express our new found love and devotion to this most wonderful of snack based experiences
With Jamie and I needing a day to organise and plan, Charles has headed on to Langzhou to do a spot more sight seeing before we rejoin him in a couple of days. The time has just flown though so I had best get a wriggle on to some emails and leave this post here.
Before I do though, I just want to highlight some environmental facts on the area.
“The Tibetan plateau gets a lot less attention than the Arctic or Antarctic, but after them it is Earth’s largest store of ice. And the store is melting fast. In the past half-century, 82% of the plateau’s glaciers have retreated. In the past decade, 10% of its permafrost has degraded. As the changes continue, or even accelerate, their effects will resonate far beyond the isolated plateau, changing the water supply for billions of people and altering the atmospheric circulation over half the planet.” Physics Today
As well as a vast store for ice, the Tibetan Plateau is the closest place on earth to the sun.
“This region has a near inexhaustible source of solar energy due to its average annual radiation intensity of 6000–8000 MJ/m2, ranking it first in China and second after the Sahara worldwide. Currently, Tibet has 400 photovoltaic power stations with a total capacity of nearly 9 MW. In addition, 260,000 solar energy stoves, passive solar house heating covering 3 million square meters, and 400,000 m2 of passive solar water heaters are currently in use in Tibet. ” Science Direct
So the ‘roof of the world’ will play a key role in our climates future.
Anyway, for more general trip info. Jamie has updated the stats page so take a look on there for the latest. Also if we can get around the ‘Great Firewall’ he should be getting some new pictures up too. Fingers crossed. (Well, if he doesn’t put the ones up of me looking like a mental patient this time…)
Right, better go but hope life is brilliant wherever you are and that the sun is shining!
Susie xx

























